Jun. 29th, 2001

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Yesterday we had six hours of language instruction, in the morning and afternoon. Jiri brought his guitar to class and taught us three songs. One for drinking beer, one for drinking wine, and a love song. He has a romantic, lovely voice and now I understand why he is married. I wish he would sing to us every class.

Inbetween, I wandered the neighborhood of Filozoficka Fakulta, and discovered some interesting places. Inside an antique store, I found twenty or so illegal original Russian icons. I wanted one so much, even knowing they aren't supposed to be taken out of Russia.

Sadly trudging down the street, I found myself in a small antikavariat full of dusty books. I talked with the manager Jan, and told all about my career in Czech studies. He liked my Czech so much, that he sold me a beautiful book on Czech poster art from behind his counter. Also picked up some novels and old photographs, and a postcard from Lenningrad in the 1950s. All for less that $10!

Today I've been walking for hours and hours, up and down the hill and all around. Went to the Infant of Prague church and made friends with a loquacious priest who gave me a whole stack of prayer cards. Picked up a rosary for Father Elmer as well. Tomorrow I'm going to Mass there.

Walked down Uzjed, taking pictures of the streets and buildings. Crossed over the bridge near Narodini Divadlo, the National Theater. Ate lunch in Cafe Slavia and sat at the table where Havel often sits with his wife. Above is a picture of them, autographed by Havel. He signs his name with a little heart, and I find it somehow silly and endearing. Again, I spoke brilliantly intelligble Czech and impressed the waitress into giving me decent service. That you simply can not get if you are a foreigner there. I had potato soup, lemonade with fresh fruit, Sachertorte and Viennese coffee. It was such a nice lunch, watching the Vltava in the sunshine. I felt happy, happy like no other feeling.

Kept walking down past Tesco, across Vaclavske Namesti, down to the Municipal Building and to Celetna. Bought some Hrabal, and gifts for friends back home. Took pictures of the Jan Hus statue and the streets again. I like these pictures better than pictures of the same things on the postcards. I want to remember where I was walking.

The sun is so nice, I want to lay on Patrin hill again. Though I need to go home and shower so I can go to the theater tonight. Haven't decided what I want to see, but there is a lot of interesting stuff going on.

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